What to Do in Lisbon

里斯本36小时

　　Everything old is new again in the Portuguese capital. Throughout the hilly metropolis on the Tagus River, fading structures and spaces are being stylishly reborn. Once-forlorn neighborhood markets have undergone ambitious renovations and currently form the city’s newest hot spots for dining and drinking. Formerly decrepit townhouses now harbor Lisbon’s chicest indie shopping centers, and the once-dodgy docklands boom with emergent night life in multiple guises. Even the city’s dowdy, underused central square and adjacent waterfront have been spruced up for lounging and strolling. At the same time, the city’s classic historical charms, from art museums to industrialists’ mansions, remain beautifully intact, complementing their rejuvenated neighbors.

　　在葡萄牙首都里斯本，一切旧事物都在焕发新生。里斯本坐落在塔古斯河畔，山坡起伏，城里各处的衰败建筑正接受有格调的改造。几经废弃的街区集市经过大规模翻新，成为里斯本最新的餐饮热门地点。一度衰败的城市宅邸如今是市内最时髦的独立购物中心，破落的港口区随着各种新兴夜生活而一派繁荣。甚至连邋遢闲置的中心广场及附近河滨也被修饰一新，供游人闲逛。与此同时，从艺术博物馆到工业家故居，该市的经典历史景点仍保存完好，漂亮迷人，与焕发新生的邻居们交相辉映。

　　Park, which overlooks Lisbon's hills.

　　俯瞰小山的公园。

　　1. Sights and Suds | 4 p.m.

　　1. 风景和泡沫 | 下午4点

　　For years, the monumental 18th-century square called Praça do Comércio was surrounded by dull government offices and blighted by construction sites for sewage and transportation projects. In the last few years, however, the square’s icons — an ornate triumphal arch and a statue of King Dom José I — have been refurbished, and a host of new cafes, bars and boutiques has moved in. The outdoor terrace of the Museu da Cerveja, a beer museum (forgettable) and bar (worthwhile), has lovely views along with beers from Portugal, Brazil, Mozambique and other Lusophone lands. The dry and yeasty Templarium (5 euros, or about $5.32 at $1.06 to the euro) offers a window into another compelling development: an evolving trend of Portuguese microbrews.

　　商业广场(Praça do Comércio)历史悠久，始建于18世纪。多年来，它被乏味的政府机关包围，多次成为下水道和交通工程的施工场地，因此变得满目疮痍。不过，在过去几年里，这个广场的标志性建筑——华丽的凯旋门以及国王多姆·何塞一世(King Dom José I)的雕像——被翻修一新，引得一大堆新咖啡馆、酒吧和精品店入驻。啤酒博物馆(Museu da Cerveja)的博物馆性质经常被人忘记，它的酒吧倒是值得一去。它的室外露台风景很好。啤酒来自葡萄牙、巴西和莫桑比克等葡语国家。发酵型干啤Templarium(5欧元，以1欧元兑换1.06美元计算，约合5.32美元)能让你了解另一项引人注目的发展：葡萄牙微酿啤酒的新潮流。

　　2. Riverside Renaissance | 5 p.m.

　　2. 河滨复兴 | 下午5点

　　Seedy, stinky and garbage-strewn, the neighboring waterfront strip languished for years. Thanks to a recent municipal cleanup, the seaside is now frequented by joggers, strollers, cyclists and picnickers who take advantage of the new tree-lined path, gently graded stone steps and kiosklike cafes along the riverbank. Art-world denizens might recognize the colorful ship called Trafaria Praia. Covered in traditional blue and white tiles and filled with twinkling installations evoking the sea, the ferry was conceived by the artist Joana Vasconcelos and formed the Portuguese pavilion at the Venice Biennale in 2013. At 11 a.m., 3 p.m. and 6 p.m. from March through October, the boat offers a one-hour scenic ride.

　　多年来，这处离商业广场不远的河滨狭长地带肮脏恶臭，垃圾遍地，破败不堪。多亏最近市政府的清理，现在很多人经常到海滨慢跑、散步、骑自行车或野餐，享受新修的林荫道、坡度很缓的石阶以及河畔的亭子式咖啡馆。艺术界人士也许能认出那艘名为Trafaria Praia的彩船。船顶铺着传统的蓝白瓦片，里面满是象征大海的闪亮装置作品。这艘渡船由艺术家若阿娜·瓦斯康塞罗斯(Joana Vasconcelos)构思，是2013年威尼斯双年展上的葡萄牙馆。从3月到10月，每天的上午11点、下午3点和下午6点，这艘船提供时长一小时的风景游览。

　　3. Food Court | 8 p.m.

　　3. 美食街 | 晚上8点

　　Is there one place in Lisbon where you can dine on raw veal, tinned octopus meat, shaved ham, stewed clams, mango ice cream and cherry-flavored ginja liqueur? Why, Mercado da Ribeira, com certeza. Half of the 19th-century structure — still home to myriad produce stalls — was taken over in 2014 by Time Out magazine and elevated into a hangarlike, neo-industrial food court where top Lisbon chefs, favorite restaurants, upscale food shops and multiple bars ply their goods. O Prego da Peixaria serves succulent warm beef sandwiches on soft Madeira flatbread like the Betinho (8 euros) — slathered in melted cheese, barbecue sauce and cured ham — while Tartar-ia transforms uncooked meats and fish into sculptural and sublimely seasoned creations. The tuna tartar (12.50 euros) comes with ginger, creamy avocado, radish and black sesame seeds.

　　里斯本有没有什么地方，能让你同时吃上生小牛肉、罐装章鱼肉、火腿切片、炖蛤蜊、芒果冰激凌和樱桃味烈酒?当然有，那就是里贝拉市场(Mercado da Ribeira)。这座19世纪的建筑里仍有数不清的农产品摊位。2014年，该市场的一半被《Time Out》杂志接管，升级成一个飞机库样的新工业主义美食街，里斯本的顶级大厨、热门餐馆、高档食品店和各种酒吧在这里不断供应美食。O Prego da Peixaria餐馆供应温暖多汁的牛肉三明治(8欧元)——松软的马德拉扁面包里塞满融化的奶酪、烤肉酱和腌制火腿。Tartar-ia餐馆则把生肉和生鱼做得好像精心调味的雕塑。鞑靼金枪鱼(12.50欧元)里有姜、奶油鳄梨、小萝卜和黑芝麻籽。

　　4. Louche Lounge | 10 p.m.

　　4. 堕落的酒吧 | 晚上10点