In Toronto, a Locavore’s Life Made Easy

遍尝多伦多本地美食指南

　　FOR some, the term locavore has gone from revolutionary to groan-worthy, conjuring images of holier-than-thou elites with the means to worry about not just where, but by whom, their cheese is made. And yet, as easy as it might be to dismiss eating from harvests no more than 100 miles from home as a lark of the privileged, the movement is still gaining converts.

　　对有些人来说，“土食者”(locavore，也译作“当地膳食主义者”)这个术语已经从充满创意变得令人反感。一听到它，人们就会想到这样的画面：精英人士带着“我比你们高贵”的表情，吃饭时不仅担忧面前的奶酪在哪里制造，还担忧制造奶酪的人是谁。虽然这种只吃100英里以内农产品的做法很容易被贬为特权阶层的可笑做法，但土食主义运动仍然在吸引越来越多的追随者。

　　Toronto has embraced the trend with particular fervor. In a city where winters begin early and end late, every day of the week a new, or nearly new, ultra-local organic farmers’ market can be found in neighborhood parks; each one named for its barrio in an effort by neighborhood associations to bring local to the locals. The markets, many of them year-round, also offer travelers a glimpse of daily life here.

　　多伦多以独特的热情拥抱了这场潮流。在这个冬季来得早却走得晚的城市，几乎每天都会有一家超级本地化的有机农贸市场在社区公园出现。每个市场都以社区所在地命名，社区机构希望通过这个举措吸引本地人购买本地的食物。这些市场大部分都全年开放，也给旅行者提供了一个欣赏此地本土生活的机会。

　　“Up until a few years ago we had hardly any markets in the city, but it has really exploded,” said John RichLeMonde, the director of Sorauren Park Farmers’ Market (Monday 3 to 7 p.m.; corner of Sorauren Street and Wabash Avenue; westendfood.coop), a year-round operation that opened four years ago. During a visit this spring, dozens of children toddled about the market, dancing to the tunes of Jan Kudelka, a folk singer. Janet Dimond, owner of the stand Augie’s Gourmet Ice Pops (augiesicepops.com) briskly sold fresh icy confections (watermelon infused with cucumber and ginger, strawberry mingled with rhubarb) for $2.75 and bowls of asparagus, lemon and chickpea soup for $3. “On a day like this,” Ms. Dimond said, indicating the brilliant sunshine, “this is where everyone comes.” Alli Millar, who lives down the block, sold loaves of spring onion and wild wheat bread, and sticky buns for $3. Two women sold vegetarian spring rolls, freshly rolled, under a banner labeled Earth and City (earthandcity.ca), and Bizjak Farms sold its cider and apples, picked just a few miles away in Niagara, Ontario (bizjakfarms.com).

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